In a discussion with BWW’s Director, Céline Pérez and Javier Pagés, the fair’s President, I learned that the growth is intentional yet purposeful. Spain is a huge player on the world wine map but has been in the shadows of large fairs like Vinitaly and Prowein.

However, BWW is not set out to copy these shows. In fact, Pagés used the word “democratization” when describing the model. The size of the stands are limited, so that 1) wineries don’t have to spend a lot on their presence, and 2) a larger stand won’t overwhelm the smaller ones around it. This makes sense on so many levels. Wine buyers and tasters can be much more nimble when moving from stand to stand without getting “stuck” in a huge booth. I can attest to entering massive stands at the other international fairs with the feeling that I was in a bar or restaurant—it’s hard to leave. Exhibitors with larger budgets can still showcase more wines or hold small presentations, but they also don’t have to risk spending a lot of money on a gigantic set-up that only a few attendees may pass through.

Wineries are grouped by Denominación de Origen (DO) and the huge, colorful overhead signs made it easy to see what was where. Considering that there were more than 80 DOs this year, this was helpful. The eye-level signage has also improved since I was last there in 2022. Because of such growth, the fair was spread between two buildings, with a busy city street to cross. Whether the choice of using these two particular buildings (there are others in the Fira Barcelona complex) was intentional or just due to availability is a challenge that needs to be addressed, which both Pérez and Pagés recognize.

Ok, so, there you have a little of BWW’s history with an eye to the future.

How did I spend my days? Tasting, listening, and talking. One of the best parts of the show are the self-service areas, one in each building. Even some of the DOs had their own line-ups. You can take your time or power through them.

A few of the highlights:

*Finca Villalobillos Airén Pie Franco 2023. This wine is from 89-year-old, pre-phylloxera vines from the Toledo area of central Spain. Airén is thought of as mostly used for brandy production or as a bulk wine, but when given a little love, you get this delicious example.

*Lafou de Rams Garnatxa Blanca 2018. This one is from 58-year-old vines in the DO Terra Alta, which excels at Garnatxa/Garnacha Blanca.

*Leonor Palo Cortado from González Byass from the DO Jerez-Xèrés-Sherry. Just a gem!

As far as listening, there were over 160 speakers this year on topics ranging from climate change, women in wine, old vines, how to connect with wine consumers, how wines get on a hotel’s wine list, the terroirs of specific DOs, to the future of glass bottles, and much more.

I attended a presentation by Andrea Miró Ràfales and Sarah Jane Evans, MW on the first Spanish non-dealcoholized 9% dry wine guaranteed under a DO (DO Terra Alta). Just the description is a mouthful. But what a mouthful of bright, delicious sunshine! The wine is made from Parellada, a grape that is naturally low in sugar; therefore, science tells us that with less sugar, the less alcohol the yeast will generate when eating that sugar. You may know Parellada as one of the main grapes used in Cava, and you may know Terra Alta as a DO specializing in Garnatxa Blanca, but Andrea’s family and the others that form the group Agrícola Corbera d’Ebre that made this wine believe that they should utilize what’s around them, and there is quite a bit of Parellada in their area.

The wine is called Nakens, which comes from the word nak, meaning “not hidden.” To English speakers it seems similar to “naked,” and in a sense it is. Andrea says it’s the “naked expression” of Parellada.

Nakens was tasted next to L’Home Peix Blanco, another 100% Parellada made by the group, but at 11% abv. My take on the comparison? Both had floral, citrus, and white fruit notes with refreshing acidity to make you want to take another sip on a hot day. The Nakens was slightly lighter-bodied on the palate, but this is perfect when you want to take another sip on a hot day. 😎

I did a fair amount of talking at the fair too—talking to producers Jordi and Francesc from Alta Alella, to Bideona export manager Caroline, to Rioja education director Peter, to Esther from DO Jumilla, to Amaya of Spanish Wine Lover, Zara of Savour Academy, and so many more about the state of Spanish wine in Spain and in the rest of the world. This is the best way to learn what producers are facing in the vineyard, what consumers like or don’t like, what’s happening with costs, urban encroachment, which countries are excited about Spanish wine and which ones are tailing off. There is so much going on and wine magazines just scratch the surface.

A special treat for me was talking to my two favorite Elenas: Elena Pacheco of Viña Elena in Jumilla and Rioja’s Elena Corzana. I helped out during a harvest at Viña Elena a few years ago and it was fun to find out how their Garnacha project is going. Elena Corzana’s Maturana Tinta 2021 just blew my mind when I tasted it a little over a year ago and I love how she uses the clay amphorae from her local area to mature some of her wines.

Just like Dorothy and Toto in the Wizard of Oz, Barcelona Wine Week has left Kansas, so to speak. I’m excited to see what the next adventure will bring for this evolving event.

Some basics:

• Native red grape of the DO Utiel-Requena in southeastern Spain, documented from the 15th century

• A LOT is planted

• Thick-skinned variety that was/is used in blends to add color and acidity, but now coming into its own as a single varietal wine

• Has a lot of synonyms and there is uncertainty about it being a part of the Bovale grapes of Sardinia

• Descriptors include: chewy, chocolate, licorice, fruity, refreshing, mineral, spice (is your mouth watering yet?)

Maybe the most well-known winery (at least Stateside) making Bobal today is Mustiguillo. Those in the US may recognize the Mestizaje labels, very funky and cool. But could your average Joe name the grape? Maybe not…

Additional reading (yes, I read them all too):

Guía Peñín (English)

Guía Peñín (Spanish)

Foods & Wines from Spain

Spanish Wine Lover

My plan:

Try some wines from not only Mustiguillo, but from Bruno Murciano, Hispano+Suizas, and Dominio de la Vega. Sparking Bobal is also made, so that is definitely on my mind!

I’m also mindful right now of the damage the recent flooding caused in this area. I saw debris everywhere and I can’t imagine how this is going to affect the vines. My mind is on Bobal country (and my heart too).

Here are my latest additions:

Now breathe…

🥂😋

Next up was a pre-class tipple with Nikki (we own Vine Lab Wine & Spirits Academy) at Estelle in St. Paul. We both had an Amontillado. Hers was the Lustau-Los Arcos and I had Valdespino’s Contrabandista. I can see how it could be contraband—OMG how delicious! Everyone would want to get their hands on it.

We then headed over to Minneapolis to teach a class on Sherry and Sherry cocktails. I absolutely love it when people try something and it blows their expectations out of the water. What delight on their faces that night!

The drink is called an Arawak, adapted from Trader Vic’s Bar Guide from the 1950s. It’s PX, rum, orange bitters, and an orange twist. I think we gained some Sherry converts after that!

Sherry Week continued with study. Yes, study. I’m in the middle of the WSET Diploma and it so happens that I’m doing the fortified wine module right now. Perfect timing 😀

I’m super grateful to have taken the Wine Scholar Guild’s Certified Sherry Wine Specialist course over the summer. Sherry can be complicated and the more I read and taste, the more it sinks in and the more I appreciate it.

It’s still Sherry Week today and I’m not sure what’s in store, but I think I may make up my own Sherry weeks during the year. Why wait until November? Why only once a year? I think I need to get a bigger wine fridge…